New Year in Tokyo

5:07 PM


Unlike in other countries, where they celebrate with fireworks, the Japanese ring in the New Year. In temples and shrines throughout Japan, bells are rung as the clock strikes at midnight on New Year’s eve. In Buddhist temples, the bells can be rung as much as 108 times. Thousands welcome the year at temples or shrines or visit within the first few days. They call the first visit to a Shinto Shrine or Buddhist Temple of the year “Hatsumode”. 



The surrounding grounds of the temples & shrines are filled with different food stalls that sell food, toys, and festival games.


 The shrines and temples also set up additional counters for selling amulets for the influx of visitors to purchase new amulets. 
Additional stalls ready to sell amulets at the Meiji Shrine two days before the New Year

Lines of visitors buying amulets at the Nishiarai Daishi Temple on New Year's Day

As a practice, they dispose old amulets by returning it to the shrines or temples so that they can be disposed properly.  

Amulet return box at Meiji Shrine & my old amulets to be returned. 



At the Meiji Shrine, there is a big box near the Tori Gate at the entrance of the grounds  and near the Temizuya. Omamori or amulets are replaced yearly to ward off the year’s bad luck and old ones are burned as a sign of respect to the deity. There are plenty of Omamori depending on the kind of luck you want for the upcoming year - finding love, safety, for passing exams, etc. Depending on the temple or shrine the type of amulets may vary.   

Omikuji: You put Y100 yen in the box on the counter. You then pick up the fortune telling poetry box and shake  until one stick comes out. You shake it lightly or watch how the locals do it. You remember the number and take the fortune with the  corresponding # from the boxes as seen above.  




On the first day of the year, we visited Nishiarai Daisha - a Buddhist Temple that was founded in 826. Known as one of the three great temples of Kanto. It is especially popular temple for Hatsumode.  Almost half a million visit during the first few days of the year. Known for warding off evil and praying for good luck, there are lines of people to say a prayer inside the main hall. It is also a temple known for people to find love. There are plenty of stalls for amulets and stalls that sell kumades & Daruma Dolls. 

Lines to the Main Hall of the Nishiarai Daishi temple


Main Gate of the Nishiarai Daishi Temple 

The Shio Jizo is a stone statue of Jizo Bosatsu covered with salt on the left side as you enter from the main gate of the temple before reaching the Main hall or the temizuya. It is known to remove the warts of prayer. You’re supposed to take a little salt from here when praying and if warts disappeared you would offer double the amount you took to the Jizo.  




Different sizes of daruma dolls are available around the temple. Commonly in red, these are distinct dolls with rounded bottoms. Designed to rise immediately when it falls, it is a good luck charm and reminder to reach one’s goals. A popular proverb “fall seven times, then rise eight times”, is often associated with the Daruma dolls. When you first purchase a doll, you will notice that the eyes are empty. You are supposed to draw one eye was you wish. You placed the Daruma doll in your home or office as a reminder to achieve or work towards your goal or wish. Once you accomplish or wish is granted, you draw the other eye. You return the completed doll to the temple. If you’re in the area in early February, you can visit on Setsubun Day where they burn Daruma dolls of the previous year and throw beans to invite good luck and ward evil. 

A man drawing in one eye on his new Daruma. Daruma sold at stalls around the temple. 

You can also find decorated wide rakes or “kumade” for sale at temples.  They represent “raking in” wealth, good luck and success. These bamboo rakes come in different sizes and prices. Decorated full of good luck symbols such as Okame or a mask of a round faced woman and  Maneki Neko or lucky cat. Popular symbols also include symbols of longevity like the crane and turtle that both have long lives. You can often find kumades in stores and businesses as symbols of luck to rake in fortune and for the business to thrive. Often only sold during the New year and during the Tori No Ichi Festival celebrated in November. Traditionally, each rake is returned and a new slightly bigger rake is bought. The bigger the rake, the more luck it can bring in. 



The nearest train station to Nishirai Daishi is Daishi Mae Station (a short walk through the side entrance of the temple) or a 15 minute walk from Nishiarai Station. 



FUKUBUKURO 

During the New Year ‘til the first few days of the year, many Japanese go home and the on holiday so a lot of stores would be closed. Establishments near tourist or shopping areas would likely have more open stores and restaurants. 




Many stores sell on New Year’s day a “happy bag” or “lucky bag”. Known as “fukubukuro”, shoppers can purchase a bag from their favorite store at the designated price not knowing what is exactly is inside. Prices of the bag varies depending on the store. More often than not contents are valued more than the selling price of the bag. If you get really lucky it could be more than twice the value or more. However if luck is not on your side, you might not get or like what you get in the bag. So it’s best to buy from your favorite store so you have a higher likelihood of liking what you get. Popular stores may have lines as early as they open so you should head early to grab one. They only sell a limited quantity and only until supplies last. Some stores may run out by lunch time on New Year’s Day.


Contents of the fukubukuro bag I got from Verve Coffee Roasters: mug & 2 bags of coffee
 which combined was more than I paid for. 

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