COFFEE, CAKES & SUITCASES: #koyo

Hiroshima & Kansai Autumn Itinerary

With this current trip, we used the Kansai-Hiroshima Pass for the first 5 days, the ICOCA-HARUKA economical pass for the return trip to the airport. The Kansai-Hiroshima pass is for Y14,500 (13,500 if you book ahead on their site -you'll need to print out a confirmation email to claim). Good for 5 days, we were able to take the bullet train between Osaka to Hiroshima and JR Trains in Kansai (including Kyoto & Nara) up to Hiroshima. This included the JR ferry ride to Miyajima. The first day of trains would have cost about Y12,060 with the multiple bullet trains and other train rides we were able to save approximately Y25,000.On return to Hiroshima, we explored the Hiroshima Peace Park. The sights in the park are not far from each other and you can spend just a few hours. Add another hour or two if you plan to visit the Museum. Make sure to stop by the memorial. Since we planned to visit the Himeji castle we didn't go to the Hiroshima Castle.

Capped off another amazing autumn adventure. This time ventured off to the historical Hiroshima and its neighboring islands. After landing in Kansai Airport, we took a 2 1/2 hour train (HARUKA) to Shin Osaka and a bullet train to Hiroshima.

The Hiroshima-Kansai Pass can be used in the automatic gates and is for non-reserved seats on the HARUKA and Shinkansen.

I usually choose which economical pass to use depending on my intended itinerary and find the best suits it. After deciding on the pass, I would tweak the schedule further by moving some sights or adding some stops to maximize the pass. JR East, West & Central offer various economical passes which may suit how far and how long you plan to explore. You can also choose one day passes from other train companies to save on your train costs. For instance, there is a bus and subway day pass available in cities like Kyoto or you can use tourist passes (one day or two days) like the Kyoto Tourist or Osaka Amazing Pass.

A few friends have asked so I'm sharing my itinerary:

DAY 1: ARRIVE IN JAPAN: at Kansai International Airport

Note: if your flight is arriving later in the day you might not be able to reach Hiroshima before the last bullet train. Trains and streetcars do not run after midnight. Our flight had arrived at around 2:30 PM and was out of the airport at 4. We arrived at our accommodations at around 7.

Take street car to hotel accommodations.

Street Car tip: streetcars #2 & #6 have high steps and may take some effort to lift up your luggage to the streetcar. the newer streetcar line #2 / #6 (green movers) have lower steps but are not as frequent.

DAY 2: OKUNOSHIMA ISLAND & EXPLORE HIROSHIMA

Okunoshima Island (takes about 2 hours depending on the train & ferry schedule. You can also take a bus from Hiroshima Station to Tadanomi Port. You can spend half or a full day on the island. Explore Hiroshima in the late afternoon or evening

To get to Okunoshima: take the streetcar to Hiroshima Station; then take bullet train to Mihara; transfer to Kure line to Tadanomi Station; Walk 5-10 minutes to Tadanomi port; take Tadanomi-Okunoshima Ferry to Okunoshima Island.

Return trip: Take ferry back to Tadanomi Port; walk to Tadanomi train station, take train from platform 1 to Mihara Station; transfer to Bullet train back to Hiroshima.

Tip: Enjoy the scenic views from the train on the ride from Mihara to Tadanomi.

DAY 3: MIYAJIMA ISLAND & EXPLORE HIROSHIMA

Depending on where you'll be staying in Hiroshima, it can take 45 minutes to an hour and a half. You can take a streetcar to Miyajimajuchi Station which is walking distance to ferry port or the JR Train. We took the train as it was included in the Kansai-Hiroshima pass and was relatively faster than taking the streetcar from our lodging. You have two options for the ferry -JR Miyajima Ferry or the Matsudai Ferry. We took the JR Ferry as it too was included in the Kansai -Hiroshima Pass. Starting at 9AM they also have the Great Torii Gate Ferry which takes a closer route to the Torii Gate. I would suggest making the most of the day to explore the island.

DAY 4: INSTANT RAMEN MUSEUM & TRANSFER TO KYOTO

The Hiroshima Kansai Pass doesn't include the Shinkansen from Osaka to Kyoto. Since we had to change trains in Shin-Osaka Station and check in was still at 4 PM, we decided to drop by the Mamofuku Instant Ramen Museum before heading to Kyoto. After leaving our bags in the train lockers, we walked to Hankyu Umeda Station and took a short train to the museum. After exploring the museum and making our own cup noodles we headed to Kyoto and checked in our hostel. The museum is free.

To get to Mamofuku Instant Ramen Museum: From JR Shin-Osaka or Osaka Station, walk to Hankyu Umeda and take Hankyu Takarazuka line to Ikeda (about 18 mins). Then it's just a 5-minute walk from the Masumi-Cho Homen Exit to the Museum. There are signages along the way just follow the chick. From the exit turn and walk a few meters. You'll pass the Ikeda tourist office. Turn right at the corner with Yamazaki Daily then just walk straight to the museum.

From Hiroshima to Kyoto: if using the Hiroshima Kansai Pass, you'll need to transfer to the ordinary trains for the Osaka to Kyoto leg of the trip. You can take the Rapid or Express of the JR Kyoto line to Kyoto. If you'll be using the JR Pass, you can take the bullet train from Hiroshima to Kyoto just not on the Nozomi trains.

DAY 5: HIMEJI, KOBE & OSAKA

To maximize our train pass, we visited Himeji, Kobe & Osaka on its last day of validity. We took the JR train from Kyoto to Shin Osaka Station and then rode to the Shinkansen to Himeji. We spent the morning exploring Himeji Castle. Be prepared to walk and climb a lot of stairs if you plan on entering the Main Keep of the castle. After lunch, we visited the Gigantor state and Harbourland in Kobe. Dinner and the evening was spent in Dotonbori in Osaka before heading back to Kyoto

To Himeji: Head to JR Kyoto Station, take JR train to Shin Osaka Station, transfer to bullet train to Himeji. You can also take the other JR Lines if you won't be availing pass.

From Himeji to Kobe: Take JR Shinkansen to Kobe.

DAY 6: EXPLORE KYOTO

Nanzen-Ji & Arashiyama

Since it was the peak of the Autumn colors in Kyoto and a Saturday, there were multitudes of people around the temples and popular sites. We were able to just visit 2 sights as getting around took a little longer than planned. Arashiyama, for instance, was packed and the streets were packed with people. They had to have a directed flow of people on the Togetsukyo bridge with a large number of visitors. If visiting on a weekend I would suggest visiting early in the day to avoid the crowds or to try and visit on a weekday instead.

Make sure to visit Tenryuji Temple and enjoy the fall foliage inside.

More on Arashiyama and Tenryuji Temple at http://coffeecakesandsuitcases.blogspot.com/2016/11/arashiyama-bamboo-forest-togetsukyo.html

On the south end of the Philosopher's walk, Nanzen-Ji is a short walk from Keage Station on the Tozai LIne of the subway.

Walking directions: once you exit the station, turn right, turn towards a short tunnel before reaching the corner. walk and follow the path. You'll pass smaller shrines on the way. Once you exit the path you'll be on the road and the main entrance to the Nanzen-ji temple should be towards your right.

DAY 7: EXPLORE KYOTO

Gion & Fushimi Inari

Spent the last full day exploring Kyoto. We started by visiting a small shrine Yasaka Koshindo. Also known as the 3 monkey shrine, this shrine is dedicated Koshin-San. Just a few steps from it is the Yasaka Pagoda. we explored the Higashiyama area as we made our way to the Yasaka Shrine in Gion. From there, we walked to Gion-Shijo Station to take the Fushimi Inari.

Fushimi Inari is one of the stops you need see when visiting Kyoto. It's no surprise it's one of the top sights in Japan. See the rows of vermillion gates as you climb up the mountains. You'll need at least a day if you plan on visiting the entire route. But an hour or two would be enough if you just want to see the rows of Torii gates. Once you reach the shrine with the deer emas, just head back the other side of the Torii gates. The shrine is just steps away from JR Inari Station. To know more you can visit my entry on FUSHIMI INAR

To get to Yasaka Koshindo, walk from Gion Shijo or take a taxi. To Fushimi Inari: from Gion Shijo Station, take the Keihan line to Tofukuji Station then transfer to JR Nara Line to Inari.

I would suggest visiting Tofukuji too. It's one of the best places to see autumn foliage. Best time to go is when it opens or near closing hours to avoid the crowd.

More about Tofukuji

Visit my other places to visit in Kansai in Autumn:

AUTUMN IN OSAKA & Top 3 places to see autumn foliage

Autumn Day Trip from Tokyo: AUTUMN DAY TRIPS FROM TOKYO

The exact train directions would depend on where you'll be staying.

Buy/Exchange Train Voucher at JR West Office

Head to HIROSHIMA via HARUKA to SHIN-OSAKA Station & Shinkansen to Hiroshima Station (2 1/2 hrs)

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# osakajo

Autumn in Osaka

In Osaka, you can enjoy the fall foliage at the Osaka Castle Grounds and different parks. If you have a half to a full day, you should head up to Minoh.

OSAKA CASTLE

Enjoy fall foliage of cherry, maple and gingko trees on the castle grounds. One of Osaka's iconic sights, the Osaka Castle is among the must-see spots. The grounds are beautiful and it;s great to walk around the park (Osaka -Koen). Even beautiful in the Spring when cherry blossoms are at it's peak and in the fall to enjoy the Koyo or autumn foliage.

The Castle itself is a replica which houses a museum and an observatory on its top deck.

I wouldn't advise going inside the castle itself. There is usually a long line to go inside even before it opens. You aren't allowed to take photos in the museum part. The view on the observation area is beautiful but is a little blocked with the wire fencing around. There is just a few elevators going up and you'll have to take the stairs going down. Stairs is quite narrow and is usually packed with numerous visitors.

I'd suggest visiting early in the day to avoid the crowds and would work your way down. Start with the observatory then go down to the museum and displays. If availing of the Osaka Amazing Pass, entrance is free. You'll just present your Osaka Amazing Pass ticket to enter.

There are souvenir shops inside the castle and around the park. There is a machine that sells medals you can personalize with your name and dates your visit in the park. You have the option to purchase a keychain holder or necklace to hold the pendant.

There is also a time capsule that is buried in front of the castle. Look for the marker. Enjoy some soft ice cream and some souvenir shopping around the park.

The Castle is about 15 minute walk from either Morinomiya, Osakajo koen, or Tanimachiyonchome Stations.

I use the Morinomiya station and have a pleasant walk up. It's close to where buses park, so there won't be a problem getting lost since all you need to do is follow the tourists going in.

From Morinomiya exit 1 or 3B, walk up to the grounds passing the Southern outer moat on your left, then continue up the driveway towards the Sakuramon Gate then enter. You'll approach the castle's main tower from the front. There are souvenir stands in the left side and the time capsule is in the middle part of the area.

• Website: http://www.osakacastle.net/english/museum/index.html

• Entrance Fee: Y600 Museum, Castle Grounds: Free

• Nearest Train Station: Morinomiya (Chuo Exit # 1 , 3-B or Nagahori Tsurumiryokchi Line Exit # 3-B) ; Tanimachi 4 Chome Station (Chuo Line Exit # 9) / tanimachi line) or Osakajo Koen (JR Osaka Loop

• Hours of Operation: 9:00 - 5:00 PM Museum

MINOH (MINOO)

One of the favorite places to visit during this season is in Minoh (Minoo) in Northern Osaka. Admire the spectacular fall foliage of Mt. Minoh & its waterfalls in the Meiji no Mori Mino Quasi-National Park. There are many events and activities during this season as many visitors are expected.

MINOH WATERFALLS

Just a 26 minute train ride from Umeda Station (Hankyu Line) of Osaka, you’ll reach Minoo Station. On weekends and holidays during the season a special bus is available to the Minoh Park. Otherwise you can enjoy the 2.8 km or 45 minute scenic walk to the Minoh Waterfalls.

Along the way, there are stores and small temples you can visit. You can stop by Ryuanji Temple and try the deep fried maple leaves called “Momiji Tempura”. Another local produce you can enjoy are the different Yuzu products available. This citrus fruit is in season.

One of the oldest national parks of Japan, Mino Park is picturesque especially as the leaves turn. Considered as one of the top 100 waterfalls in Japan, the hike up will definitely be worth it.

Website: http://www.mino-park.jp

Nearest Train Station: Minoo Station (Hankyū Minoo Line from)

You can also take Northern Osaka Hankyu Bus from the express line "Senri Chuo Station" (No. 11 stop) ride to Mino Bus Stop in Minoo Park.

Entrance: Free

KATSUOJI TEMPLE

While in Minoh, you should also visit the Katsuoji Temple. This temple known for the good luck to business, sports, elections, etc. The Kachi Daruma or winning Daruma in the temple is available for purchase at the temple.

Associated with the Japanese proverb “Nana Korobi Yaoki” or “fall down seven times, get up eight”. The rounded shape makes the Daruma stand up again when knocked over. This doll reminds us to have persistence on our goals. When you first buy a Daruma doll, the eyes are blank. You’re supposed to paint one eye as you think of your goal, and then when the goal or wish is accomplished you paint the other eye completing the Daruma.

There is an autumn illumination until late November until 7:30 PM.

Website: http://www.katsuo-ji-temple.or.jp/katuouji_e/index.html

Entrance Fee: Y 400

Nearest Train Station: Kita Senri or Senri Chuo then bus # 29. It’s a 2 hr walk from Minoo Station. There is a limited number of departures on week days.

Hours of Operation: 8AM-5PM Weekdays & Saturdays ; 8AM-6PM Sunday & Holidays

Tip: To save on time and considering how early the sunsets in autumn, instead of taking the bus to Katsuoji we took a cab from Minoh Station and rode the bus on the way to Senri Chuo Station. Cab was about Y2000 and was worth it since we were able to go around at a good pace and was in time to catch the bus back at 11:18 to Senri Chuo.

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