Nikko had always been on my list of places to see in Japan. In my last visit to Tokyo, I was able to take a day trip to see the beautiful & lavishly decorated Nikko Toshogu Shrine.
From Tokyo, you can reach Nikko by taking the Ltd. Nikko train from Shinjuku Station. You can also use your JR PASS, JR EAST Tokyo Wide Pass or JR EAST Nagano/Niigata Pass. We took the LTD EXP. NIKKO 1 as it was a direct train to Tobu Nikko Station.
The best way to get around Nikko is to get a bus day pass when you arrive at the Nikko Station. It’s Y300 per way on the bus and the bus pass is only Y500. I wouldn’t advise walking to Shikyo bridge or to Nikko Toshogu Shrine from the station.
A UNESCO World Heritage site, the shrines and temples in Nikko are built on the sacred mountain of Nikko. The most iconic of them are the Nikko Toshogu Shrine and the Shinkyo Bridge.
SHINKYO BRIDGE
This red lacquered bridge in the heart of Nikko is a prime example of a traditional temple bridge. The original bridge that arches over the Daiyagawa River was built in 1636 but was destroyed later in a flood. The current bridge dates from 1907. Technically part of the Futurasan Shrine it’s just by the road and easy to see. You can get a quick view from the bus when heading to the Nikko Tosho gu. You can also go down the bus at the Shinkyo stop and take a hike up to the shrines.
You can get a good view of the bridge from the sidewalk beside the bridge. If you would like to enter the bridge, you’ll need to pay an entrance of Y500. You can only cross and go back where you entered as the other end of the bridge is closed.
ENTRANCE FEE: Y500 (adult)
HOW TO GET HERE: Take Bus to Shikyo Stop.
NEAREST TRAIN STATION: Tobu Nikko Station
NIKKO TOSHO GU SHRINE
The Nikko Toshogu Shrine is one of the most famous shrines in Japan. Part of the shrine complex inside a forest and on the sacred mountain of Nikko, it is known for its intricate wood carvings, gold leafed details, and colourful exterior. Built in 1617, it is also the Mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu enshrined as the deity “Tosho Daigongen” or the great deity of the east shining lights. Ieyasu founded the Tokugawa Shonugate that ruled Japan for 268 years and unified Japan under his leadership.
The Nikko Tosho gu Shrine is also unique as it still contains contains both Shinto & Buddhist elements. The elements are so intermingled that it cannot be completely separated. During the Meiji period, Shinto and Buddhist was deliberately separated. Elements of one religion were removed from the other.
As it is built on the side of the mountain, a visit to the shrine would require a lot of walk uphill. Some stairs are quite steep.
You can opt to walk uphill from Shinkyo Bridge into the cedar forest.
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| view from the stairs looking down on the stone Torii Gate |
As you enter the main grounds of the shrine, pass the huge stone torii gate, you will notice a 5 storey Pagoda on your left.
The 35 meter high pagoda was rebuilt in 1818. Each storey represents the elements- earth, water, fire, wind, and heaven. Pagodas are normally found in Buddhist temples and is an example of how Shinto and Buddhism elements are present in Tosho gu Shrine.
The ticket booth is on the left of the bottom of stairs to the shrine .
There are audio guides in English and other languages you can rent (Y500) when you reach the top of the shrine pass the Otemon gate.
On your left are the Sacred Stables or "Shinkyu" you can find 8 panels of carvings above the stable of monkeys that teach how to lead the ideal life. The most popular one is the Three monkeys in Nikko. The monkeys are posed “see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil”. There are also other monkey carvings on the stable including a newlywed couple,
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| side of the stables |
There are good luck charms, fortunes, and emas (Y800) for sale near the Shinkyu
Across the stable you can find the “Sonozo Elephants” or imagined elephants were carved by Kano Tanyu, who painted the elephants even though he had never seen an elephant.
Make sure to stop by the Sacred Fountain and see the granite basin dating back 1618 under a Chinese styled roof.
Another stairs will lead you to the bell tower on the right, drum tower and The Honji=do on the left.
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| Drum Tower |
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| BELL TOWER |
The “Crying Dragon” is a large painting in the Honji do Hall where a bright ringing sound is heard when 2 pieces of wood are clapped directly under its head. It’s in the building beside the drum tower. Turn left before entering the Yomeimon Gate.
Make sure to stop and notice the intricate details of the carvings of the wall and Yomei-mon gate. There are carved cloisters that enclose the main shrine buildings with animals that represent the Heaven, Earth, and Water. There are 25 carvings - 16 to the east and 9 tot the west of the Yomeimon Gate.
The Kara-mon is smaller than the Yomei-mon. There are renovations currently on the way. To enter the shrine’s main sanctuary- Haiden & Honden, head to the right side of the Kara mon. You will need to remove your shoes and leave them in the provided cubby holes to enter. There is a wooden covered walkway inside and note that photography is not allowed in this area. You can also purchase an assortment of good luck charms here.
Sakashitamon Gate has the famous carving of the Nemurineko or sleeping cat. It marks the flight of stairs towards the Tokugawa Ieyasu Mausoleum. It’s on the right side of the main of the main buildings.
The shrine is normally packed with people. We had arrived at 10AM at the shrine and the place was already full of visitors. I would suggest arriving earlier if you prefer less people or expect a longer visit if you want to take photos with less people in the frame. It would take you about 2-3 hours to visit this shrine. If you have more time, visit the other shrines and temple nearby.
The shortest walk is to take the Futurasan Shrine Stop and walk 5 minutes to Toshogu Shrine. You can take an uphill 10 walk from the Shinkyo Bridge Stop.
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| Futarasan Shrine |
WEBSITE: http://www.toshogu.jp/english/
ENTRANCE FEE: Y 1,300
HOW TO GET HERE: take bus from Nikko / Tobu Nikko Station (Y300/way or Y500 day pass)
NEAREST TRAIN STATION: Tobu Nikko Station
HOURS OF OPERATION: 8:00 AM-5:00 PM
BUS STOP: JR Nikko Station; # 2 Tobu Nikko # 7 Shinkyo # 9 Nishisando Iriguchi
(TAKE BUS YK (Yumoto Onsen) or C (Chuzenji) . See table for timetable
TO TOSHOGO SHRINE
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#1 JR NIKKO
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#2 TOBU NIKKO
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#7 SHINKYO
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#9 NISHISANDO IRIGUCHI
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BUS ROUTE: YK
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10:02
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10:05
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10:09
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10:11
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BUS ROUTE: C
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10:32
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10:35
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10:39
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10:41
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BUS ROUTE: YK
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10:37
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10:40
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10:44
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10:46
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BUS ROUTE: C
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11:02
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11:05
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11:09
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BUS ROUTE: YK
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11:07
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11:10
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11:14
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11:16
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BUS STOP: 1A JR NIKKO
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BUS STOP: 2A Yumoto Onsen; 2C Chuzenji
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TO JR NIKKO
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#9 NISHISANDO IRIGUCHI
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#7 SHINKYO
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#2 TOBU NIKKO
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#1 JR NIKKO
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BUS ROUTE: YK
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2:54
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2:56
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3:01
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3:05
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BUS ROUTE: YK
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2:59
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3:01
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3:06
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3:10
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BUS ROUTE: C
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3:19
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3:21
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3:26
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3:30
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BUS ROUTE: YK
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3:34
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3:36
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3:41
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3:45
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BUS ROUTE: W
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3:03
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3:08
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3:12
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The World Heritage Sightseeing Route
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3:18
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3:27
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3:48
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